For ten or twelve weeks a year, one stretch of Coachella Valley desert produces the only Keitt mangos commercially grown in the country. Most mangos you buy have crossed a border, gone through a mandatory hot-water quarantine treatment, and spent weeks in transit. Ava's has done none of that. The Corona-College Heights co-operative farms nearly all of that acreage and packs an hour from the trees, so the fruit gets picked ripe. Expect a big, green-skinned mango with a small pit and no stringiness.

They sell it under Ava's, named for the daughter of one of the cooperative's grower-owners.